Thursday, January 20, 2011

Go Ride.

Do you remember the fire swell? Hard off shores, unreal perfect combo 5 to 7 foot swell hitting the So Cal coast. It was what people still talk about to this day! Well, I missed it. I decided to spend time creating new flyers for a new type of tour my wife and I were trying to make. The new Spring Break tours to Cabo didn't pan out and I missed one of the best swells ever! I think back and if I put the flyers on hold for just 24 hours, I don't think I would've missed out on any marketing time.

So today, good friend Nelz calls me up right after I got out of the water from shooting. I usually head straight home and begin uploading the photos from the session. But I heard it in Nelz's voice. I've heard that voice before. I only here it when the waves are absolutely going off or super fun. I thought back on that the fire session and make the choice to meet up with him for a session.

Needless to say, my hunch on Nelz's voice pitch was right on. We met up in an undisclosed parking lot, suited up and head out to perfect little drainers. My favorite thing about this magical place... there's a no-leash policy out there. It's a great policy in a place where the waves are perfect. Spreads out the waves and riders perfectly. I think every wave that is perfect and sizeable, the no-leash policy should be enforced. Love it.

Moral of the story... if you know deep down that the waves are going to be going off, think about your sanity if you miss the session. If you decide to spend time behind the computer on work that could be postponed without any serious consequences, think again. The only thing we really have at the end of our own life long tour of ours, are our memories. So make 'em great.

This isn't the spot that I rode today but it is another great memory from Indo. I'll be there soon with a group and again in July. Who's in?


  1. Thanks Rosary. Am I going to see you in Indo this summer? We'll be there from July 5-19 and at Lakey's around the 8th or so.

  2. Aww man... This would be perfect for all the boys that missed this Tuesdays swell here! Make them think twice about doing it again! :D

  3. I guess about 14 years ago (once upon a time), I was checking the mediocre surf early morning, wondering if I was going out. Manny walks up and we watch a few waves break unridden, because nobody is out yet. Manny says to me, "A wave that goes unridden is only a mirage". For a few seconds I started thinking about trees falling in woods with nobody around, and then I went surfing.
    It is amazing what we hold onto, and where we can find motivation and wisdom from. Mahalo MannyV