Monday, January 24, 2011

What's Really Going On?

Something's happening in the wave riding world. Modern day surfing has surfers that are pushing 80. And for the first time in history, bodyboarding has a baby boomer type of community that are pushing their 40's. Mike Stewart is a great example of a bodyboarder that is over the hill (age, definitely not his skills) and still rides his three foot something piece of foam. But those bodyboarders that looked up to the likes of bodyboarding pioneers Mike Stewart, Keith Sasaki, Ben Severson and many others are still riding their bodyboards and have not opted to go the route of stand up surfing. The simple answer of 'it's more fun' is reason enough for them, and me, to stick to riding a bodyboard.

It didn't hit me until the other day when I went out to this one surf spot where I was the only bodyboarder out in the line up. My friend and I were joking about the surfers that may talk smack on me cuz I'm on a 'sponge'. But then we realized that I'm a grown man. I'll be forty in December. So who in their right mind, would talk smack to a grown man just because of his/her wave riding vehicle? If I haven't dropped in on you or gotten in our way, then the board that I'm riding shouldn't matter. Simple math, right?

This past weekend, an underground 'contest' went down at Salt Creek up in the OC and there were just as many men as groms out riding bodyboards. Side note: That's the most bodyboarders I've seen in California in one spot in a long time. It was actually kinda cool to witness.

So what's really going on is this... grown men who know how to ride waves properly, respect where it's due and love to ride waves as much as his/her fellow ocean lover can very well be a bodyboarder.

Holy shit... I'm going to be 40 in December!

Thanks to Don Nguyen for the photos.

Over 30 and still boogie-ing.

Stan Moniz, Hawaiian ripper, was owning the event this weekend. And yes, he's pushing 40 as well.


  1. HUUUY!!! thanks for the link MannyV!!! always a pleasure to hang out and see you! We've gotta do it sooner than later. SHOOOOOTZ!!!

  2. Cheeee!! It was really cool seeing everyone riiipp!!

  3. This story reminded me of Kona. When you are older and still charge you become a part of a very elite group of Body Boarders. I can recall surfing Honls With around 50 guys body Boarding. The main group was around 46 kids under 30, and 4 "old" Body Boarders picking off the biggest and best waves. The kids all just waited for anything we missed. I think back to the looks on the kids faces, When I would fly by them. You were one of those kids once. Now you are the man!

  4. awesome article... from rocket to manny we had all ages out there but the MEN did overwhelming out number the groms.. respect!!!

  5. Nice words Manny. Never too old for bodyboarding. Bruno.

  6. Thanks Manny. I have always been very passionate about bodyboarding. I am 34 now and I still feel the same way I did wehn I was 13 after scoring a great wave. It is all about having fun. If you are digging the vibe, why change? You are the man! Love you man!

  7. Nice one Manny!
    It's damn true man. I've been on the sponge for 30 years and still froth like a grom in a slabbing pit. I ride with a lot of crew who have stuck with boog over the years here in Oz. Our DKS crew are mostly men (in age) and you can tell by the power they ride with, the lines they take and the charging on the big ones.
    great write-up man,